Hola
Últimamente me he centrado en conseguir todos los elementos para el WTC.
He optado por utilizar el sistema que se ve en las fotos y que no requiere cortar el casco.
Ya dispongo de todos los elementos y estoy procediendo a su montaje, asi que en breve os iré poniendo fotos del proceso. de momento aqui esta el texto explicativo de los cilindros:
Thank you for purchasing my 1/72 scale Type V11C Experimenters Water Tight Cylinder (WTC) kit. I made this kit for someone who does not have the time or cannot design or build their own WTC. It makes it easier to concentrate on making the WTC function without having to worry about building the basic unit yourself.
I have called this an experimenter’s kit as one can design the operating system to suite themselves. I have included a description of how I made mine work, a list of the parts I used, and a lot of photos showing the various assemblies. You can use this information to duplicate my design, or as a guideline to inspire your own design.
My WTC is based on 13 separate parts, five o-ring seals, five end caps, and three Lexan tubes. FYI- I recommend using Permatex ultra disc brake caliper lube on the o-ring seals. * You must use a good lube like this on the seals so they will not seize in the lexan tubes. Starting from the rear I have a 1.75-inch ID end cap with o-ring seal, then a 6-inch section of 1.75 inch ID lexan, followed by another 1.75 inch end cap with o-ring seal. The next section is the same as the rear section, two caps with seals and a 6-inch Lexan tube. The last (Front) section is a 1.5 inch ID 2 inch long Lexan tube, and a 1.5 inch ID end cap with o-ring seal.
I will now describe the components I used inside of my WTC. The way I assembled my WTC consists of the following steps: 1) I opened up the two center 1.75-inch end caps with a 1& 3/16-inch hole saw. 2) Then I glued the two together to form a single double-ended end cap with a large hole in the middle. 3) I then drilled the same size hole in the front 1.75-inch end cap. 4) I then glued the 1.5 inch by 2 inch long Lexan tube centered on the outside of the 1.75 inch end cap. Now when this is all assembled it forms one interconnected WTC.
The WTC mounts inside the hull using the stock bulkheads that come in the kit. The hole in the front one is opened up to 1.75 inch and the rear one to 2 inches. I install the WTC in two pieces and slide it through the widest part of the hull opening. It is approximately 2 inches at this point. I pop the WTC apart in the middle where the rear Lexan tube connects. The wires stay connected, I am just making it so the WTC will kink at that point. This allows you to slide the rear section in and back far enough to slide the front section through the opening.
When both sections are inside the hull I push both sections back together on the o-ring seal. Now that the WTC is inside the hull you have to connect the prop shaft couplers and control surface connections. I designed it so when the WTC is pushed as far foreword as it will go against the front bulkhead, you can install the prop shaft couplers. (Which are just extended Dumas dog bones) Then you slide the WTC back so the couplers engage the brass ends. Now the WTC is held at that point with brass brackets I made that screw into the bulkheads at both ends and into the outer WTC end caps. (These brackets also have two brass nuts soldered to them for mounting the deck) You can see from the photos I just use Du-bro brass collars and brass rod to connect the WTC outputs to the rudder and front and rear planes.
Without going into great detail you can also see from the photos how I made my rudder and planes functional. I drilled out the openings in the hull for the control surfaces and added K&S tubing bushings for the brass shafts to ride on. These should be installed before the hull is assembled because the front and rear plane shafts have to go in before the two half’s are glued together. I sanded the pins on the front planes to the ID of the shaft and glued them inside the shaft after the hull was assembled.
The rudder pins were not strong enough so I drilled them out and installed brass tubing in their place. The shafts just slide up through the brass tubing bushings I installed and are held in by bell-cranks made from Du-bro collars and brass sheet.
The rear planes are made removable so the prop shafts can come out to be lubed. The rear plane pins are drilled out like the rudders were and small brass tubes installed inside the holes. I installed a shaft inside the rear plane moveable output bearing that is just long enough to allow the props to pull out. This is glued into the bearing so it moves when the bearing does. The rear planes just push on this shaft and are pinned to keep them in place. You drive the pins out to remove the rear planes.
For the prop shafts I used 1/8-inch brass rod and used K&S tubing as the shaft bearing. The tubing is held on the outer end with the stock kit mount drilled out to except the OD of the tubing. Then it runs through the hull using the stock output flanges. I made the shafts short enough to allow room for the WTC to slide back far enough, and long enough to keep the length down on the dog bones. The props I used were purchased from Engel and had a 4 MM input thread so I made adapters to connect them to the 1/8-brass shafts.
This is how the WTC is mounted inside the hull, now I will talk about what I used inside my WTC. I guess I will start from the front and work my way back. It the front 1.75-inch section houses a FMA M5 receiver, and mounted in the front end cap are the two battery inputs, and a Subtech output seal assembly for the front planes. The battery inputs and just 6/32 brass bolts and knurled nuts on the outside. You can use RTV or marine goop to seal these. The servo cables pass through the hole in the end cap and plug into the receiver.
Now in the first 2-inch OD section we have the servo for the front planes followed by a Subtech SES-2 electronic switch, then the ballast pump and valve. These are mounted to a frame assembly I made from brass tube and plastruct. The SES-2 controls the pump and the vent valve. I have the electronic switch set up on momentary not latching. When I throw my switch on the transmitter to operate the pump it will turn the pump on as long as the switch is thrown. When I throw the switch the other way it will open up a vent valve as long as the switch is thrown. The vent valve I use is normally open when no power is applied so I power it with a mini-relay to keep it closed as long as there is power to the WTC. The SES-2 will trip the relay and turn off the power so the valve will open. I use the RCABS ballast system in this WTC that stands for (Recirculating compressed air ballast system). The air pump takes the air inside of the WTC and uses it to inflate small blood pressure cuff bladders, which displaces water inside of the hull. The sub will get lighter and rise. When the air is removed from the WTC it forms a vacuum inside.
The bladders are also connected back to the WTC to a vent valve. When this valve is opened it allows the vacuum to remove the air from the bladders and suck it back into the WTC. This deflates them and allows the water back into the hull and the sub goes down. Simple! To connect the pump and valve to the bladders I ran silicone tubing to brass tubes that were run through the middle double-ended end cap. You can see these coming out on an angle in the photos. They get connected to the bladders from these with more silicone tubing and brass Tee adapters and angle connectors. These I soldered up myself.
I used the area between the WTC and deck in between the bulkheads for the bladders. You can see from the photos I had to brace the deck with K&S brass channel and angle to keep it from flexing when the bladders pump up. I also added a middle mount that screws the center of the deck to the sides of the hull for the same reason. I do not recommend using anything but the stock deck for an R/C version of the V11C. Too much of a hassle using brass or wood. The plastic looks fine and is water friendly. The others are not! The center section of the deck screws on with four brass screws on top at the ends. These screw to the bracket mentioned earlier. The front and rear sections have a piece of plastruct glued to their bottoms that engages the center section, and a brass screw at the bow and stern. It is quite simple and works fine.
Now back to the WTC. The last 2-inch OD section houses the motor ESC, the two servos for the rudder and rear planes, and the motor assembly. All this mounts to the rear end cap were the Subtech seal assemblies are also. It is easier to start from the rear of this section as all of the components are mounted to each other from the end cap out.
I use GWS LPS motors and gearboxes made for model airplanes to power the model. I chose the 6/1 gear ratio to get lower current draw. You can mount two of these to the end cap and still have room for two of Subtechs output seals for the servos. I used a piece of brass tubing that was 1/8 inch OD and had the same ID as the GWS output shaft. This was glued to the GWS shaft, and ran through a Subtech output seal. You can see from the photos how I did this. The end cap was drilled and tapped for 2/56 screws to hold the gearboxes to the cap.
The GWS boxes are usually meant to be mounted on a round shaft, which gets inserted into the back of the box in a mounting hole. I used this to mount the servos to the box assemblies. You can see a brass tube was inserted into the hole, which is soldered to a brass plate that the servo is mounted to. I used double-sided foam servo tape for this attaching it to the end of the servo.
The other end of the servo has another brass plate that is soldered to some brass angle that acts as the mount for the ESC. The ESC is mounted to this with servo tape also. You can see from the photos that I mounted one servo upside down and the other right side up. They are also staggered front to back to allow them to fit in the tube, and align the pushrods with the output seals. I wired everything so I can disconnect the front and rear and middle WTC sections and end up with three assemblies. I do have one word about the seals. I have found that the stock one-way seal used in the Subtech seal assembly will not hold up to the vacuum if you use a RCABS system. I recommend using a standard o-ring seal 1/8-inch ID X ¼ inch OD that you can find at almost any hardware store. This will fit in place of the stock seal without any problem. I have not had any vacuum leaks using them.
For power to run the model I chose 1 AH 3.7 volt Lithium-Ion cell phone type batteries, which I bought surplus. I used two of these in series giving 7.4 volts at 1 AH. The motors will draw 2 amps total at full output with the props I am using. This gives me ½ hour run time at full throttle. It has more than enough speed at ½ throttle, so an hours run time or more is easily possible. What I did was mount the batteries inside a thick rubber balloon that is used to seal receivers in high-speed gas powered model boats. I put a dab of RTV were the wires exit the balloon and use a tie-wrap to close it up.
The battery is mounted just in front of the WTC and sits on the bottom of the hull. I use a Deans micro power connector to connect the battery to the WTC. The mating end of the connector is attached to the knurled nuts with wire.
This completes the assembly and installation of the WTC into the Type V11 hull. Remember, this is just a basic explanation of how I did my WTC. It is not meant as a step-by-step how to. This is why I sell it as an experimenter’s kit. You can use any system you can fit inside of the WTC when doing your own.
I have tried to include all the information you may need without doing a complete how to. Good luck and please feel free to contact me with any questions you may have. Thanks, Dave.
* Make sure you use a good brand of synthetic lube on the seals. Coat the tube and the seal in the end cap well. Also take care when removing the cap. Take your time. Gently pry under the cap a little working around the perimeter.
Los motores y reductoras son las GWS-GW-LPS-RXC-C, se piden fácilmente en
http://www.aircraft-world.com/Los sellos y árboles de hélice son de subtech Subtech,
www.rcboats.com <http://www.rcboats.com>
